If you've got it... Flaunt it!
Dressing for your body type
Written by KAREN KITTERMAN
Buying clothes that flatter your body type may seem daunting, but the task is not impossible if you keep in mind two basic concepts: Know what to look for and accept what you have.
Buddhist philosophy encourages one to live life not remembering the past, nor looking to the future, but solely in the present. The same can be applied to shopping. Do not go into the dressing room and buy the pants that will fit only if you lose 12 pounds. I cannot count how many times I've heard my mother say, "I was a size 2 when I was in college." That's all well and good, but you are not a size 2 now, and buying pants that fit a size 2 will not help your cause.
The other facet to consider is your attitude at the shopping scene: Seek and ye shall find. (Another helpful tidbit from religious philosophy.) Be absolutely critical. If you aren't seeking the perfect fit, you won't find it. Think of all the vendors available these days. Why settle? If the fit isn't perfect, seek another. If the pants wrinkle in the front, if the shirt gaps in the back, don't settle.
Knock and the door shall be opened unto you. The dressing room is your friend, and you can be assured it won't tell your secrets after you leave. Don't hesitate to try something on more than once. Sometimes having another piece that serves as comparison can be the key factor in finding the perfect fit.
I suppose we could lay out every rule for every perceived flaw, but the truth of the matter is that all women have elements that are unique to them, so rather than play a rousing game of mix and match, read the general rules, and then throw out those that don't apply to you.
A few thoughts to tote to the dressing room:
Take an artist's tip.
Step back and squint every once in a while. This allows you to focus on the overall shape of your body rather than the details of your ensemble.
Know the importance of the neckline.
A turtleneck will make your shoulders look broader; a V-neck, smaller.
This season's off-the-shoulder trend flatters almost any shape.
A boatneck is ideal for broadening shoulders but will shorten the length of the neck.
Square necks are ideal for balancing a wide body and giving the illusion of a strongly defined shoulder line.
Show skin in the places where you are thinnest.
For example, the collarbone. Every woman has a long lean line from her sternum to her chin. If you want to draw attention away from a wider midsection, try a V-neck. Another trick is to find skirts and dresses that hit just below the knee to flaunt shapely calves.
Use your shape; don't hide it.
When trying on a pair of pants, make sure you fully examine the fit from every angle. Baggy pants don't flatter anyone. Do the pants scoop your bottom in the back; do they follow the curve of your leg? Are they bunching at the front? What about length &emdash; do they cave at the knee? (Often this issue can be addressed with the right heel height.)
Think structure.
Make the most of your shoulders; they are the top of your hourglass and lend a clean line to your body's frame. Also know that structure is only part of the equation; fabric and print come into play as well. If you find a piece you love, but it falls under the "do not wear" section, try it on. Just promise yourself that if it doesn't work, you'll put it back.
LOVE your shape.
The mistake women too often make is wishing they were someone else. Audrey Hepburn came on the scene in the age of Marilyn Monroe and Liz Taylor. She couldn't do a darn thing to create curves like they had, so she subscribed to a style all her own. In this dawning era of change, women have room to redefine the boundaries of fashion.
If you're a Pear:
What you should do: Look for pieces that accentuate your shoulders. The wider your shoulders appear, the smaller your hips will look. Shoulder pads and square necks with cap sleeves are ideal. Invest in pants that sit on your hips. Having a lower waistband creates an illusion of balance.
What you shouldn't do: Invest in fabrics that cling or skirts that taper. For example, avoid the pencil skirt. It will highlight the widest portion of your body, whereas a flared skirt will skim over your hips, allowing your thin midsection to be the focal point.
What to look for this spring: An A-line dress belted at the waist.
If you're an Apple:
What you should do: Make friends with the dress. A skirt and blouse ensemble cannot slim and add length the way a dress can — especially one with an empire waist. Ensembles that cut across the middle immediately direct the eye toward your broadest part. A dress that perhaps cuts in under the bust and flows down to the knee would be ideal. Many designers are changing the shape of the T-shirt. Same soft jersey fabric we love, completely different cuts. Try one that falls from the shoulders and gathers loosely about your hips.
What you shouldn't do: Wear hip- or thigh-length jackets. A long jacket meant to cover the derriere often makes it look bigger. Besides, why cover it if you have that perfectly fitted pair of pants?
What to look for this spring: a chiffon blouse with a dramatic, defined collar. Pair it with wide-legged slacks that sit on the hips.
If you're a Strawberry (translation — busty):
What you should do: Invest in single- rather than double-breasted jackets. Look for flared skirts that fall below the knee — they create the illusion of length, which is essential for balancing out a large bust. Also look for prints in small patterns; they have the effect of diminishing size.
What you shouldn't do: Wear tight-fitting tops tucked into tight-fitting jeans. You'll look like a country music star who lost her rhinestones. Wear pieces that taper; skinny jeans and pencil skirts often make one appear top-heavy.
What to look for this spring: Another trend resurfacing this season is lace. The pattern embedded in the fabric has a sort of balancing effect that works well for larger bustlines. Look for pieces with a square or sweetheart neckline with detailing around the edges.
If you're tall
What you should do: Edit your skirt length. High-waist pencil skirts are stunning on tall women; skirts that hit above the knee are tricky — long legs may make them look unintentionally short. Also try a long tunic with pants tucked into boots or, for a variation, cuff them at the ankle and pair with ballet flats.
What you shouldn't do: Incorporate four-inch heels into your everyday look. Stilettos are fine for a night out, however … unless you'll be escorted by Tom Cruise.
What to look for this spring: A wrap dress with a flared skirt that hits at or just below the knee. If you're feeling adventurous, look for one with a little pattern. Polka dots are making a comeback this season.
If you're petite
What you should do: Invest in a pair of high heels. With so many designers turning their attention toward comfort, pain no longer needs to be a requisite. Think long, clean lines, and take advantage of the higher waist to add length to your legs.
What you shouldn't do: Wear anything baggy. It instantly diminishes your form. Also, avoid pants with appliqués on the leg. This draws attention to the lack of distance from hem to hip.
What to look for this spring: Last fall's wide-legged pants are great for adding length to legs; just make sure they fit your derrière well. No drowning in fabric! Pair with an off-the-shoulder top to make the most of your neck and shoulder line.
