 THE BROKER RESTAURANT
A trip down memory lane
Written by MARY ROSS
Photography by KIMBERLY DAWN
As far back as the 1970s, The Broker
Restaurant was a popular venue for prom or
special dates. More than 30 years later,
people can still enjoy a nostalgic evening
in the restaurant’s same downtown location, in a former
vault beneath the old Denver National Bank.
Built in 1903,
this remains one of Denver’s most unusual dining locales.
Being a former vault, The Broker has many old nooks and
crannies. The huge wine cellar lies more than 35 feet below
ground, in the innermost sanctum of the former structure.
The Broker is one of Denver’s original steak and seafood
restaurants. At one time a chain of restaurants spanning
Denver to Boulder, today the last remaining Broker is family owned
and operated. April, the friendly young hostess, is the
owner’s daughter. Eric, the upbeat waiter, is April’s brother,
and another brother, Jake, tends the bar.
April escorted us through the large heavy brass vault door
into a lovely booth once used by bank customers to review
their safety deposit boxes. The setting was just as we
remembered it 20 years ago.
The restaurant’s original cherry wood is glossy and perfectly
maintained, adding a warmth and elegance to the
restaurant’s ambience. The traditional tufted red leather seats
are cozy and comfortable. The booths, with their high-paneled
wood walls and soft lighting, provide an unusual dining experience,
creating a private setting that allows patrons to
observe other diners in the room.
 Dinner is all-inclusive, featuring the renowned shrimp
bowl, soup or salad, vegetables with the entree, fresh bread
and dessert, from $38 to $59.
My husband’s wine was a great find — Silver Palm, a new,
less-pricey cabernet from Silver Oak Cellars, a prestigious
California vineyard owned by the Duncan family of Denver.
The Broker’s wine list has won the Award of Excellence from
Wine Spectator magazine.
In addition to the excellent wine list, we were pleased to
find the restaurant still offers the all-you-can-eat shrimp
bowl with every meal. It would be hard to find any other
restaurant in Denver that has this kind of generous appetizer.
The house salad was nicely apportioned, although it was
a bit heavy on the dressing. The Caesar salad could have
used a bit crisper and more tangy lemon-and garlic flavor,
but again, it was nicely sized, considering the large amount
of food being served.
 For the main course, I ordered the Filet Wellington, a beef
tenderloin wrapped and baked in puff pastry. It was a generous portion, served with
garlic mashed potatoes and
vegetables. My husband had
the Southwest Wellington,
chopped prime rib and filet
sautéed with pepper jack
cheese and green chilies
baked in a puff pastry.
Our waiter noted that
while the recipes haven’t
changed over the years, the
clients have, often preferring
lighter portions. This is
a typical steak house, with
larger portion sizes and
emphasis on sauces.
One menu item that has remained consistently popular is
the warm apple pie dessert. It was baked exactly the way
apple pie should be, with tart apples, a sweet filling and a
warm flaky crust, topped with melting vanilla ice cream.
Another nostalgic element we noticed was the pleasant
lack of bass-thumping noise typical of many large restaurants
these days. What a pleasant relief not to have to listen to
techno music pounding off hard surfaces during our meal.
Enjoying a conversation in a restaurant without competing
with its sound system was a relaxing respite.
The Broker is a great
place for a private party,
with a special room that
seats up to 26 people. The
room is surrounded by a fantastic
selection of wines.
The Board Room, another
private dining space, is in a
traditional library setting
infused with attractive soft
lighting. This room also
seats up to 26 people.
 The real bargain at The
Broker, as many of Denver’s
downtown business community
already know, is the
lunch. Tuesday’s bargain offers 35 percent off the bill;
Wednesday’s special is the famous roasted prime rib special
with garlic mashed potatoes, vegetables and creamed horseradish;
Thursday’s is the New York strip steak sandwich; and
Friday serves fish and chips. The lunch specials are $6.95.
Occasionally, the restaurant offers its Back-to-the-Seventies
specials for $4.95.
The Broker understands value, comfort and a romantic
atmosphere. It was highly popular in the 1970s and has never
lost its unique charm.
The Broker is located in the Colorado Business Bank
building on Seventeenth, between Champa and Stout
Streets. It’s open Monday-Friday for lunch 11 a.m. - 2 p.m.,
and for dinner 4 p.m. - 10 p.m. Monday- Saturday. Sunday
dinner is served 4 p.m. - 9 p.m. Reservations can be made
by calling (303) 292-5065.
ESCOFFIER RECIPE
The Broker Restaurant
CURRY CHICKEN SALAD
1 cup dried cherries
2 Tbs. curry powder
1-1/2 cups mayo
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp white pepper
1 tsp Tabasco
1 celery stalk, finely diced
1 red onion, finely diced
1 Tbs. Colman’s dry mustard
5 pounds cooked chicken breast
Procedure:
1. Dice chicken breast
2. Mix with all remaining ingredients
3. Chill for one hour before serving |
